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Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...!

+20
miVR4
rahitse
udin81
Palladium
xrayer
yana_rozi
azmi
ficus
jue
Zero Cool
Deuce
Ppkp Rey
msaa
herpes simplex
ahzamo
zaki78
junior ma
zulk
rhc 1718
tornado5807
24 posters

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Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...! Empty Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...!

Post by tornado5807 Sun 02 Sep 2007, 11:16 am

Jikalau ada sesapa yang mempunyai masalah kereta anda.. silalah kemukan
Den bukan mechanik tapi serba sikit tau lah.( Tak de lah nanti kena sembelih )..Tawaran ini terbuka kepada semua forumers... Insyaallah !
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Post by rhc 1718 Sun 02 Sep 2007, 1:17 pm

HMMM... ENCIK TORNADO.... aku ade soalan hmmm... betul ka kalu install turbo leh buat keta cepat rosak dan pendekkan nyawa keta tu..... kalu btl nape ramai yg pasang turbo pd keta kalu ianya dtgkan masalah????
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Post by tornado5807 Sun 02 Sep 2007, 1:28 pm

Kalau kete kita tu ambil H/C terus dari mitshubishi terus tak pa !
6A 12 twin turbo ke,4G63 ke,!
Kalau bolt on Turbo tu .. tu yang hancur engine !...
Sebab presure engine tu tinggi ,, engine m'sia tak mampu nak maintain !..

Kalu JDM punya engine boleh la tahan ...
Satu lagi .., diorang yg pakai turbo ni biasanya second car.. !
untuk competetion DRAG / Driff ... !
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Post by rhc 1718 Sun 02 Sep 2007, 3:07 pm

kesimpulannyer kalu bkn untuk lumba jgn la  pasg turbo yek
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Post by zulk Sun 02 Sep 2007, 4:48 pm

hi tornado... betulkah cakap2 yg mengatakan penukaran kpd rim yg lebih besar akn menguatkn penggunaan petrol.. klu ikut pengalaman aku.. x dak beza rsenye.. dulu aku pki rim 15 tyr 195/55.. skrg aku pki rim 16 tyr 205/55...igt nk tkr pki rim 17 plak..tyr 215/50.. tp yg aku mushkil..fuel consumption la.. betul ker..?? klu org kte sbb berat rim..aku rse rim std 15" lg berat...klu ambik bsa, OS..rsenye x ler berat sgt..Question Question Exclamation
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Post by tornado5807 Mon 03 Sep 2007, 11:17 am

Banyak faktor sebenarnya yg menyebabkan FC kita naik sebab rim !

1) Jenis rim
2) Saiz tayar..
3) CC kereta kita.
4) Cara kita memandu..

1) Jenis rim..
- Kalu rim cap ayam memang la berat.. Cuba pakai rim OZ, enkey ke , yg Aloy punya , mesti ringan & FC pun tak naik..

2) Saiz tayar
Kalu pakai rim biasa 17" ( cap ayam punya ) , pakai tayar tayar
205/50/17 memang la FC nya naik sikit,.. kadang2 kita tak perasan.

3) CC kereta kita.
Kalu CC kereta kita setakat 1.3 nak pakai 18" .,emmmm pikir2 la
FC tentu la naik , sebab nak tarik kereta tu tak cukup power ngan tayar yg besar cam tu !

4) Cara kita memandu.
Kadang2 cara kita memandu pun ada sebabnya juga., kalu kaki melekat je kat pedal minyak tu .. tentu la minyak kuat .. !
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Post by rhc 1718 Mon 03 Sep 2007, 9:01 pm

bagus2 maklumat yg informatif...  
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Post by tornado5807 Tue 04 Sep 2007, 11:00 am

rhc 1718 wrote:kesimpulannyer kalu bkn untuk lumba jgn la pasg turbo yek
Betul tu !
Kalu tak ada pertandingan ( yg sah shj ,) kat litar atau mana2... kete kita jgnlah buboh turbo... !Keta kita m'sia sememangnya sudah power dah.
contohnya GTI, Neo..dsb..!
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Post by rhc 1718 Wed 05 Sep 2007, 7:24 am

Betul tu mmg dah berkuasa kedu2 keta tu
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Post by junior ma Sat 15 Sep 2007, 7:18 am

org kata jika selalu bawak laju keta boleh rosak betul ka????
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Post by zaki78 Sat 15 Sep 2007, 8:25 am

tspi kite sekali sekala kena bawak laju kalau tak enjin jadi lembab.
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Post by tornado5807 Sat 15 Sep 2007, 4:00 pm

Betul kata zaki...!
Bukan selalu nak bawak laju..!
Tapi sekali sekala .. kena ajar sikit engin tu...! biar dia tahan lasak !!
Kalu hari 2 bawak dalam 60 je...!
lama kelamaan nanti nak bawak laju sikit dah semput...!

Kita nak ajar sikit engin tu .. supaya pelancaran minyak, pelancaran angin, dia valve..! dan sebagainya...!

Kalu hari2 bawak laju tu dah kira mat rempit...!
Hari2 bawak laju pon boleh jugak rosak..!
tengok konsisi kereta la..! jenis apa !..
Kadang2 ada setengah kereta engin dia tak tahan...!
Bukan nak memburukkan kereta m'sia...! sebab saya pernah pakai kereta wira aerobak.. sebulan sekali saya balik pantai timur.., dalam masa setahun setengah dah kena buat top overhaul... ! maklumlah jalan pantai timur ada berbukit bukau.!
Kadang2 kena speed sikit... !
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Post by ahzamo Tue 02 Oct 2007, 6:07 am

En.Tornado..(munkin kete engko laju macam tornado)aku nak tanya pasal kete.. munkin engko ada tahu sikit sebanyak..apasal bila aku check minyak itam kete aku seminggu sekali kurang sikit dari asal (servis perlinciran) lepas 1500km aku kena top up sikit..tengok leaking tak nampak (naked eyes), ekzos tak kuar asap..kat luar enjin clear jer,tak der pengumpulan minyak + abuk..
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Post by tornado5807 Tue 16 Oct 2007, 12:27 am

Cara2 nak check minyak itam...

1) Kalu boleh check waktu pagi2.. sebelum start engine.
2) Biar kereta tu sama level.Maksudnya kete tak duduk senget..ke, duduk kat cerun. ke...!!
3) check pertama kemudian lap.. ! Check kedua..adalah confirm !

Masalah awak ni ..kena tau jugak .. history kete saudara..!!
Baru ke second hand...! Dah berapa lama pakai..!!

Kalu macam saudara cakap tu... !!
cuba sesorang ramp ( tekan minyak ) sekuat2nya dan saudara tunggu belakang dan tengok ada asap itam keluar tak..!!
Kalau ada ,.. kemungkinan kereta saudara makan minyak itam...!!
Dan kalau betul ia makan minyak itam.. maka saudara kena buat TOP Overhaul..!!!( Tukar seal, tukar piston ring.,granbal..! dsb..!!!
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Post by herpes simplex Fri 19 Oct 2007, 9:59 pm

lagi cadangan pada ahzamo......ko lenjan enjin tu sampai blown,pastu cari hinjin baru....pueh ati!!!!heheheheee...
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Post by tornado5807 Fri 26 Oct 2007, 11:36 am

hai herpes...kuat meracun nampak !!!!
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Post by msaa Fri 26 Oct 2007, 9:22 pm

injin kalo ngam ekzos dia mesti ade kuar air menitis......tiptop nya enjin yg sihat...kawe dah 7 tahun servis schedule autorize workshop....masih kaw top speed ...
mungkin tornado boleh terangkan mengapa terjadi air bila pembakaran enjin yg sempurna...he...he...dan injin yg sihat jer jadi begitu betul kah..tornado?
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Post by msaa Thu 01 Nov 2007, 3:49 am

oleh kerana tornado lum abis wat kajian kawe ingin add skit ker...bleh tornado kawe percaya ko akan publish x lama lagi...

Dikatakan asap ekzos boleh menghasilkan kira satu gallon air untuk 2 gallon fuel yg digunakan!! Terhasil dari bahan yg tidak boleh terbakar hydrocarbon, oxygen dan wap air (persent in fuel) oleh emission engine system dan keluar melalui exhaust system…Air dari ekzos ini kombinasi dari hydrogen dalam minyak dengan O2 dari carburetor system…askar yg beroperasi dipadang pasir mempunyai system catalyst device utk menghasil air minum dari enjin dalam 4jam pembakaran boleh dapat segallon air minum!!!...refined and polish = normal pH, clean , oudourless & safe….baik juga minum yg ni dari minum reverse osmosis sewages water Singapore…he..he..he..
Air yg terhasil ni bergantung kpd engine exhaust emissions berbagai dan complex tapi principally bergantung kpd :
fuel type and composition
fuel air ratio,
the type of engine and
mode of its operation,
and also factors such as ignition timing,
cylinder design and
fuel additives.
Biar pun ko dah tambah turbo, nature of exhaust remains the same ..air akan terjadi!!...jadi jika injen demo x tune molek maka air yg tu munkin x kelihatan kerana terwap kepanasan atau pembakaran asap biru…kalo refined dapat minyak…kah..kah..kah..dolu 2 cikgu kawe ade tanya nape kapal selam x kuar asap...skolah rendah di wat men2 soklan...tapi yg pickup tu dah jadi Ir. dah la... Very Happy
Di bawah ni menarik utk di baca….boleh ka kawe jadi HSE officer kalo cam ni…he..he..he..

WHAT ARE DIESEL ENGINE EXHAUST EMISSIONS?
Diesel engine exhaust emissions (commonly known as 'diesel fumes') are a mixture of gases, vapours, liquid aerosols and substances made up of particles. They contain the products of combustion including:
carbon (soot);
nitrogen;
water;
carbon monoxide;
aldehydes;
nitrogen dioxide;
sulphur dioxide;
polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons.
The carbon particle or soot content varies from 60% to 80% depending on the fuel used and the type of engine. Most of the contaminants are adsorbed onto the soot. Petrol engines produce more carbon monoxide but much less soot than diesel engines.

WHAT FACTORS AFFECT THE COMPOSITION OF DIESEL FUMES?
The quantity and composition of diesel fumes in your workplace may vary depending on:
the quality of diesel fuel used;
the type of engine, eg standard, turbo or injector;
the state of engine tuning;
the fuel pump setting;
the workload demand on the engine;
the engine temperature;
whether the engine has been regularly maintained.
Diesel engine exhaust emissions have the potential to cause a range of health problems. This leaflet is a short guide for employees to the hazards posed by the emissions, and describes the precautions that employers and individuals
can take.

WHAT ARE DIESEL ENGINE EXHAUST EMISSIONS?
Diesel engine exhaust emissions (commonly known as 'diesel fumes') are a mixture of gases, vapours, liquid aerosols and substances made up of particles. They contain the products of combustion including:
carbon (soot);
nitrogen;
water;
carbon monoxide;
aldehydes;
nitrogen dioxide;
sulphur dioxide;
polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons.
The carbon particle or soot content varies from 60% to 80% depending on the fuel used and the type of engine. Most of the contaminants are adsorbed onto the soot. Petrol engines produce more carbon monoxide but much less soot than diesel engines.
WHAT FACTORS AFFECT THE COMPOSITION OF DIESEL FUMES?
The quantity and composition of diesel fumes in your workplace may vary depending on:
the quality of diesel fuel used;
the type of engine, eg standard, turbo or injector;
the state of engine tuning;
the fuel pump setting;
the workload demand on the engine;
the engine temperature;
whether the engine has been regularly maintained.
WHAT DOES THE COLOUR OF THE SMOKE PRODUCED INDICATE?
Smoke is the product of combustion. Vehicles at your workplace may produce three kinds of smoke, two of which indicate engine problems. The three types are:
blue smoke (mainly oil and unburnt fuel) which indicates a poorly serviced and/or tuned engine;
black smoke (soot, oil and unburnt fuel) which
indicates a mechanical fault with the engine;
white smoke (water droplets and unburnt fuel) which is produced when the engine is started from cold and disappears when the engine warms up.
With older engines, the white smoke produced has a sharp smell which may cause irritation to your upper respiratory system.
You should tell your employer if workplace vehicles are producing blue or black smoke so that prompt action can be taken to correct any problem.
WHERE ARE DIESEL FUMES LIKELY TO BE FOUND IN THE WORKPLACE?
You may be exposed to diesel fumes if you work where diesel operated heavy vehicles are being used, or where motor vehicles are generating diesel fumes such as when coming into and out of car parks or when passing toll booths.
You may also be exposed to diesel fumes if you are working in tunnels or on construction sites where diesel operated stationary power sources are being used.DIESEL FUMES AND YOUR HEALTH
Breathing in diesel fumes can affect your health, and exposure to the fumes can cause irritation of your eyes or respiratory tract. These effects are generally short term and should disappear when you are away from the source of exposure.
However, prolonged exposure to diesel fumes, in particular to any blue or black smoke, could lead to coughing, chestiness and breathlessness.
In the long term, there is some evidence that repeated exposure to diesel fumes over a period of about 20 years may increase the risk of lung cancer. Exposure to petrol engine exhaust emissions does not have the same risk.
Skin contact with cold diesel fuel may cause dermatitis.
If you think that your health is being affected by exposure to diesel fumes, you should tell your employer (eg supervisor) and/or safety representative, and consult your doctor.
WHAT SHOULD MY EMPLOYER DO TO PROTECT MY HEALTH?
Under the Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 1994 (COSHH), your employer should make a suitable and sufficient assessment of the risks to your health if you are exposed to diesel fumes. They should then take the necessary steps to prevent or adequately control your exposure in the workplace.
Where exposure cannot be prevented, your employer will need to consider the use of a combination of specific control measures including:
workplace air extraction fans;
tailpipe exhaust extraction systems;
the use of filters attached to tailpipes;
catalytic converters; and more general control measures such as:
turning off engines when not required;
keeping doors and windows open where practicable;
installing air vents in the walls and ceiling;
job rotation;
providing suitable personal protective equipment (suitable gloves should be worn when handling hot and cold diesel fuel).
Your employer should only provide respiratory protective equipment as a last resort when other means of control are not suitable.
The presence of soot on the walls or on other surfaces in your workplace is a useful indicator that diesel fumes are not being adequately controlled.
In addition to the control measures described in the preceding paragraphs, your employer should also ensure that:
any engineering controls used are properly maintained and checked regularly;
where necessary, your exposure to diesel fumes is monitored (see HSG publication Control of diesel engine exhaust emissions in the workplace - full details at end of text);
you are provided with the necessary information on the risks of exposure to diesel fumes;
you are provided with instruction and training on the safe use of the control measures and any personal protective equipment that you are using.
WHAT CAN I DO TO PROTECT MY OWN HEALTH?
You can do a number of things to protect your health from exposure to diesel fumes. These include:
ask your employer for information on the hazards associated with diesel fumes, read it, make sure you understand it and if not, seek clarification;
avoid exposure where possible;
make full use of any controls provided;
know how to use the controls provided and be able to detect any faults;
report any faults in the controls to your employer, eg poor extraction fans;
keep doors and windows open to remove any iesel fumes where possible;
turn off engines when not required;
know how to correctly wear any respiratory protective equipment or personal protective equipment your employer provides;
keep it clean and serviced, and store in a clean area provided by your employer.
In addition to these controls, there are a number of personal hygiene measures you can take:
do not eat or smoke in areas where there is likelyto be exposure;
wash your hands and face before drinking, eating or leaving work;
avoid skin contact with cold diesel fuel and hot fuel or oil.
Remember, you have a duty not only to protect your own health and safety but also to ensure that your actions do not put others around you at risk.
FURTHER ACTION
If you have any concerns or problems about exposure to diesel fumes, ask your supervisor and/or safety representative to discuss them with your employer. If this is not possible, you may contact HSE's
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Post by zaki78 Thu 01 Nov 2007, 4:48 pm

kpd azhamo, hang ni guna keta ape dan minyak jenis ape? kalau fully sintetik memang minyak akan kurang sbb dia senang meruap. sbb kes ni pernah saye dengar kat bengkel. pastu diaorang syorkan guna semi-sentetik.
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Post by tornado5807 Wed 07 Nov 2007, 12:18 am

Yer ker senang meruap...!!
Tak pernak test pon pakai Fully sentetik..!!!
Aku pon biasa pakai semi jer..!!!
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Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...! Empty Re: Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...!

Post by Ppkp Rey Thu 03 Jan 2008, 8:59 pm

pok cik menggunakn wira 1.5, masaloh pok cik ialoh semasa dijln raya bunyi kete pok cik bedengung kat dalm mcm duk atas bukit. sakit telinga pok cik mendengarnya,makin laju makin bedengung,jd pok cik nk mintok lah pandangan encik pomen menyolosaikan mslh pok cik ni. timo kasih yo nk Cool
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Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...! Empty Re: Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...!

Post by Deuce Fri 04 Jan 2008, 12:12 am

Pok cik,check your exzos piping configuration.
Consult mana2 kedai exzos yg boleh diharap.
Find out if there any abnormality such as leakage.

*sori tornado,can i help u to answer?
Sharing da same interest/passion ere.
Im new in modding,need to learn more.
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Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...! Empty Re: Masalah kereta bersama Tornado...!

Post by Zero Cool Sat 05 Jan 2008, 10:28 pm

tornado5807 wrote:Banyak faktor sebenarnya yg menyebabkan FC kita naik sebab rim !

1) Jenis rim
2) Saiz tayar..
3) CC kereta kita.
4) Cara kita memandu..

1) Jenis rim..
- Kalu rim cap ayam memang la berat.. Cuba pakai rim OZ, enkey ke , yg Aloy punya , mesti ringan & FC pun tak naik..

2) Saiz tayar
Kalu pakai rim biasa 17" ( cap ayam punya ) , pakai tayar tayar
205/50/17 memang la FC nya naik sikit,.. kadang2 kita tak perasan.

3) CC kereta kita.
Kalu CC kereta kita setakat 1.3 nak pakai 18" .,emmmm pikir2 la
FC tentu la naik , sebab nak tarik kereta tu tak cukup power ngan tayar yg besar cam tu !

4) Cara kita memandu.
Kadang2 cara kita memandu pun ada sebabnya juga., kalu kaki melekat je kat pedal minyak tu .. tentu la minyak kuat .. !

aku stuju ngn ape En.Tornado ckp....tengok saiz rim mmg kite tk dpt agak...tapi kene tengok berat rim tu....biasenye rim cap ayam memang berat walopun bersaiz 15' lagikn brsaiz 16' atau 17' ....tapi kalo Rim berjname mcm Enkei, Volk Racing Original, Advance RG Original, Racinghart, BSS Original, Sparco Original, Rally Art Original, Tenzo, Ro_ja, Konig, Mugen dan seangkatan dengannye tkde masalah....cume mampu tk mampu je la.....
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Post by Zero Cool Sat 05 Jan 2008, 10:42 pm

rhc 1718 wrote:Betul tu mmg dah berkuasa kedu2 keta tu

bro rhc 1718, ko pakai GTI mmg la kete Malaysia antare yg trpower...tp jgn lupe enjen Satria GTI tu asalnye dari Mitsubishi... name asal die 4G93 dari model Mitsubishi GSR NA Model... kalo 4G93T adelah model dari Mitsubishi GSR Turbo.. cume kt Satria GTI tu dh tukar cover Head Proton... begitu jugak ngn Enjen Proton Putra dn jgk Proton Wira 1.8 DOHC....kalo ko tk caye ko tengok geran ko die tulis no model enjen brape...msti 4G93...
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Post by Zero Cool Sat 05 Jan 2008, 11:01 pm

zaki78 wrote:kpd azhamo, hang ni guna keta ape dan minyak jenis ape? kalau fully sintetik memang minyak akan kurang sbb dia senang meruap. sbb kes ni pernah saye dengar kat bengkel. pastu diaorang syorkan guna semi-sentetik.

kalo enjen yg ade pakai sistem hydrolic mmg akn mkn minyak itam....spt contoh kete proton saga/iswara/wira kaberator bwh tahun 1999.. tu yg disarankan memakai minyk itam biase yg brharge RM30 -50...kalo yg dh pakai injection, sistem die dh lain dn kene pakai semi sintetik sbb sistem cam dn distributor dh lain...jgn pakai fully sintetik.. sebab fully sintetik trlalu cair dn menyebabkn proses peruapan brlaku dgn cepat(trutame yg keraplong distance) dan bertukar jadik asap dn kuar melalui sistem ekzos... kalo pakai kete spt vios, sentra, altis, camry, honda civic 2003-2007, honda accord 2003-2007 bole la pakai fully sintetik sbb mereke2 ni mggunekan sistem variable timing yg mempunyai sistem pembakaran minyak yg begitu efective dn mnjimatkan fuel (ikut plak care pemanduan)... tk mcm model kete malaysia spt proton saga/iswara/wira, produa kancil/klisa/kenari yg tkde system ni kcuali Myvi yg ade DVVT(pung variable timing jgk)......
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